Friday 30 September 2011

Clothing Symbolizing the Sultan's Power

The fabrics that caliphs, sultans, and princes wore or had their names inscribed on were important signs of their positions and power in Islamic Egypt.

The robe the sultan wore at his coronation was called a "Kulah." Usually a present from the caliph, it was an important part of the ceremony. The caliph would write the sultan a charter, which was read aloud in Cairo in the presence of a large number of princes and sheikhs. The caliph then would put the new robe on the sultan and delegate his powers to him. The robe was directly related to the ruler's power. Wearing it was a declaration of taking power. The sultan would ride into the decorated city from Al-Nasr gate, the Gate of Victory, wearing the robe and carrying the charter, while the princes walked beside him.

The caliph's gift to the sultan might include a fabric woven with gold, a turban decorated with cane, and sometimes a sword decorated with gold, a horse, footwear, and a ring carrying the sultan's name. Other times, the gift included a black Atlas robe and a turban, both decorated with gold; a collar of gold; a sword with a scabbard decorated with gold; and a horse with a saddle made of gold. These gifts were all produced in special workshops like the Kaaba Cover House established by Al-Muizz, the Fatimid caliph, at his Cairo palace .

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